|
It's a lazy warm day in the Richtersveld and the mood on the river is relaxed. The only sound that breaks the silence is the gentle lapping of paddles as they blade smoothly through the serene water. A goliath heron glides gracefully above. All around us, the scenery is astounding. Brown barren mountains and wide open space flank the placid Orange River as we drift along in peace. Suddenly the reverie is broken as I hear the roar of an approaching rapid. 'Life jackets, life jackets!,' goes up the cry from ahead. Our Mohawk canoe cruises down Rollercoaster Rapid, splashing and bumping into a few invisible rocks below the churning surface. Water flies everywhere but despite a few dicey moments, we emerge intact and afloat. A canoe trip down the Orange River is something that everybody should experience at least once in their life. With gentle rapids and long stretches of tranquil water, this is an adventure in which everyone from seven to seventy can take part. From Cape Town to the Namibian border, it's a leisurely drive through the stunning scenery of the western Cape and Namaqualand. Then just 15 kilometres to Provenance base camp on the banks of the river. The next morning I'm up before dawn and climb to a nearby hilltop to watch the Orange turn into a twisting path of gold. After breakfast, Neville our guide gives us instructions for the trip. 'The person at the back of the canoe is the captain and responsible for steering. The front we call the engine room because they give the power and watch out for rocks,' smiles Neville. The river trips are run in an eco-sensitive manner and Neville emphasises that no rubbish must be left in the wild. 'When you go to the toilet, dig a hole and afterwards burn the paper. If you don't set it alight, then in this dry climate, paper will last for many years. One final thing,' says Neville, as we finish packing our waterproof buckets. 'Put away all your watches because out on the river, time is no longer important.' It's a steaming day as we drift off gently down the stream and before we even reach the first bend, there are already major water fights underway. Our route will take us from Provenance camp, through some of the most magnificent scenery on earth, into the Richtersveld with the take out point 74km away at the Aussenkehr vineyards. | 
